If you want to see the first post on Liming – Click here.
I got driven round Tortola on my first visit, but with more time on my second, I took to walking at weekends. Most people felt I was mad. Apart from the coast road the three roads that headed out of Road Town went up two mile long 1 in 4 hills. I walked two of them; Huntums Ghut and Belle Vue. On each occasion, I reached the top and walked along the Ridge Road. Tortola is less than two miles wide for most of its 14 mile length, and apart from the southern coast road, the Ridge Road is the only way to get from west to east. From the central ridge you can see both sides. Although there are still some ups and downs it is a fantastic walk. At each bend a new vista would open up. At one point, as the sun was beginning to set, I saw the silhouettes of two of the larger islands, Guana and Great Camanoe, and Virgin Gorda in the distance. The composition was perfect, just enough sea, a smattering of islands of various shapes and sizes, dramatic beaches and coastlines dappled in coral reef, and an ever changing cloudscape which is enriched by the varying light of the day, bright and intense during the morning, sharp and bathed in red at sunset, purple at dusk. I looked around at the houses and decided that I could quite easily live here.
During that visit I discussed with the head of Conservation and Fisheries Department the possibility of working there. It took a lot of painful toing and froing, but eventually, a year later I moved to BVI. On arrival I checked in at a hotel in Road Town but had to start searching for a house to rent immediately. The first place I looked at was a hundred feet below the Ridge Road looking out at the wonderful vista I had seen the year before. No other place I looked at that week matched up to it, and from the end of 2001 to the very end of 2003, I looked at that same group of islands every single day.